By Melissa Clark
Corn on the cob may get all the attention, but I’m here to make the case for corn off the cob, which is superior in so many ways.
First of all, it’s egalitarian, suitable for middle-schoolers in braces, seniors in dentures and really anyone who doesn’t carry floss around in their pocket. It’s also faster to prepare, because slicing the kernels off the cob generally takes less time than waiting for a giant pot of water to come to a boil. As a bonus, you don’t have to wash that big awkward pot in the sink afterward.
That said, it helps to have a good kernel-removal technique. My favorite is to lay the ears flat on the cutting board to slice off the kernels, rotating as you go. This is not only easy, but also surprisingly tidy, allowing the kernels to fall into a neat pile rather than catapulting them all over my kitchen.
In terms of precious summertime fridge space, loose kernels take up less real estate than whole ears, leaving room for the many watermelons I seem to keep lugging home. Packed in a container, the kernels will keep for two or three days, after which, if there’s any left, I’ll stick them in the freezer to brighten my winter. Corn that I freeze myself seems to taste better than the frozen stuff I can buy, perhaps because it feels so virtuously thrifty. Or maybe it just satisfies my summer urge to preserve food as lazily as possible, without the hassle of canning, pickling or jam-making.
Once you’ve got your kernels at the ready, corn off the cob is an excellent foundation for a weeknight meal.
For this recipe, I go the sheet-pan route and roast the kernels at high heat, which turns them golden at the edges and a little chewy. Sweet corn goes well with bold, spicy flavors, especially chiles, both powder and fresh. Here, I season the corn with chili powder (a mix of ground chiles, black pepper and other spices), and balance it out with the tangier heat of sliced jalapeños and a poblano.
Then, for protein, I’ve paired everything with cubed tofu, coated in cornstarch so it becomes browned and crispy on the exterior while staying soft and pillowy on the inside.
It all makes for a colorful dish with a lively mix of textures — and no toothpicks required.
Sheet-pan tofu with corn and chiles
This colorful dish is as much about the lively mix of textures as it is the tangy, spicy flavors. On the textural side, cubes of tofu are coated in cornstarch so they become crispy at the edges as they roast, staying soft and pillowy on the inside. Corn kernels lend sweetness and a juicy snap while green chiles, onions and herbs lend freshness and heat. Fresh corn kernels are ideal when in season, but frozen corn works well too, making this a year-round dish with an inherently summery feel.
Yield: 2 to 4 servings
Total time: 45 to 50 minutes
Ingredients:
1 (14- to 16-ounce) package extra-firm tofu, cut crosswise into 1-inch-thick slices
1 tablespoon cornstarch
1 3/4 teaspoons fine sea or table salt, plus more as needed
1 teaspoon chili powder, plus more as needed
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin, plus more as needed
3 cups fresh or frozen corn kernels (from about 3 large ears)
2 jalapeños, halved, seeded if desired and thinly sliced
1 red onion, halved and thinly sliced into half-moons
1 poblano chile, halved, seeded and thinly sliced (1 cup sliced poblanos)
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling
1 lime, halved
1 garlic clove, finely grated or minced
1/2 cup chopped fresh cilantro or basil
Preparation:
1. Heat oven to 425 degrees. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.
2. Arrange tofu slices on a clean kitchen towel or on paper towels. Cover with another kitchen towel (or paper towels), and place a flat cutting board or baking pan on top. If your cutting board is lightweight, stack a few cans or a skillet on top to weigh it down. Let tofu drain for at least 15 minutes and up to 45 minutes.
3. While tofu drains, in a medium bowl, stir together cornstarch, 1/2 teaspoon salt, chili powder and cumin.
4. In another bowl, combine corn, about half of the jalapeño slices (save the rest for later), red onion, poblano, 2 tablespoons olive oil and remaining 1 1/4 teaspoons salt, mixing well.
5. Transfer drained tofu to a cutting board and cut into 1-inch cubes, patting them dry with paper towels. Add to the bowl with the cornstarch. Toss well to coat the cubes, then drizzle in 1 tablespoon olive oil, tossing gently to coat.
6. Arrange the tofu on a baking sheet, spacing it out. Roast for 15 minutes, then flip the tofu cubes and nudge them over to one side of the baking sheet. Spoon the corn mixture onto the empty half of the baking sheet. Drizzle tofu and corn with a little more oil. Continue to roast until the tofu is golden brown and crisp, 15 to 20 minutes longer, stirring the corn once while roasting.
7. Meanwhile, squeeze the juice of the lime into a small bowl, and add a pinch each of chili powder, cumin and salt. Stir in the remaining jalapeño slices and garlic.
8. Just before serving, pour the lime-chile mixture over the corn, tossing well. Top everything with cilantro or basil, and serve.
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